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Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers

机译:男性巨石和铅攀岩与铅攀岩与铅攀岩与铅攀岩与血流动力学动力学的差异

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摘要

This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (mV̇O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force–time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2–14 kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater (p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = −1.166, 95% CI (−3.264 to 0.931 s) and mean difference = −1.120, 95% CI (−3.316 to 1.075 s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114–3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553–2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or mV̇O2. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance.
机译:本研究检测了燃烧器和铅运动登山者氧化动力学和强度和耐力特性的差异。使用近红外光谱,13型桥接器,10铅登山​​者和10-Concorps在屈肌位(FDP)和伸展位数字(EDC)中完成了氧化能力指数和肌氧消耗(MV̇O2)的评估。另外,评估前臂强度(最大化性收缩MVC),耐久性(40%MVC下的力 - 时间整体FTI)和前臂体积(FAV和ΔFAV)。与铅登山者相比,MVC在巨焊剂中明显更大(平均差异= 9.6,95%CI 5.2-14千克)。与对照(平均差异= -1.166,95%CI(-3.264至0.931秒)相比,FDP和EDC氧化容量指标在铅爬山器和巨煤机和巨石中分别在铅登山者和巨果杆菌中进行了显着更大(P = .041和.013)。(平均差异= -1.166,0.931秒)和平均差异= - 1.120,95%CI(-3.316至1.075秒),攀登学科之间没有差异。与对照(平均差异= 2205,95%CI = 1114-3296和平均差异= 1716,95%CI = 553-2880),登山者的FTI显着更大的FTI(平均差异= 2205,95%差异= 1716,95%CI = 553-2880)。 Δfav或mv̇O2没有显着的群体差异。巨石中的更大的MVC可能是由于神经适应而不是肥大。攀登组中的更大氧化能力指数表明,无论攀登纪律,培训师,教练和从业者,都应考虑前臂特定的有氧培训,以帮助绩效。

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