Strength and forearm volume differences in boulderers and sport climbers

摘要

Summary – Twenty-eight participants were divided into three groups: control (n=10), sport climbers (n=9) and boulderers (n=9) to investigate the determinants of grip strength between climbing disciplines. Forearm volume (FAV) was measured using water displacement method. Maximal volitional contraction (MVC) was assessed using an open crimp grip on a climbing specific fingerboard apparatus. There were no significant differences in FAV between disciplines. However, there was a significant main effect for MVC and MVC/FAV across all groups. Boulderers had higher MVC than sport (MD=7.5 CI=1.8-13.2) and controls (MD=17.7 CI= 11.9-23.6) and sport climbers was higher than controls (MD= 10.2 CI = 4.5-15.9. The findings suggest that the greater MVC seen in boulderers and sport climbers may be a result of neural adaptations, not muscular hypertrophy.