抓饭还是饽饽-考

摘要

There has been a controversy on what Biluo is in the past. Some took it as Bobo (a steamed bun), some insisted it is pilaf or something related, and some considered it as food like pancake or noodle. Ancient scholars such as Zhai Hao insisted it is a kind of pastry, namely a steamed bun, while academic circles today mostly say it is the pilaf by their pronunciation in some ethnic minority languages in China, foreign languages and the Chinese language. This paper concluded that Biluo is a steamed bun rather than pilaf by investigating the ingredients recorded in ancient literature, and, in line with ancient local chronicles in the Dynasties of Ming and Qing, held that Biluo came to be pronounced as Bo in a fast manner and Bobo replaced Biluo as a general term today.%饆饠的所指，历来有多种说法，或认为是饽饽，或认为是穆斯林的抓饭、八宝饭，或认为是类似于锅贴的包馅面食、面条，其中较常见的说法是“饽饽”说和“抓饭”说。“饽饽”说以古人翟灏为代表，认为是饼属，即饽饽。今天学界则多持“抓饭”说，认为是穆斯林民族盛行的抓饭，或者是与抓饭相关的食物，因为在外语及我国一些少数民族语言中，抓饭的读音与饆饠相似。文章通过考察历代文献关于饆饠做法的记载，发现“抓饭”说不可取，饆饠并非抓饭，而是饽饽类面食。最后结合宋元时期流行切脚语的时代特性及明清方志类文献关于饽饽样式的记载，认为“饆饠”二字可以急读成“饽”字，饽饽后来代替饆饠成为通用叫法。