Horizontal Partical Velocity Profiles Beneath the Crests of Waves Breaking on a Submarine Bar

摘要

The horizontal particle velocity profiles beneath the crests of breaking waves have been measured and evaluated for waves breaking on a submarine bar. A breaking wave classification system based upon the cross-sectional symmetry of the wave was used to isolate three distinct breaker groups. 'Characteristic' wave and horizontal particle velocity profiles were obtained by averaging the wave and velocity profiles from individual waves within each symmetry group. These wave and horizontal particle velocity profiles of the symmetry groups define hydrodynamic conditions for the physical characteristics of the breaking wave. The contrast between the gently spilling symmetric breaker of this study and the plunging symmetric breaker of other investigations may suggest that symmetric waves occur as both high and low energy conditions of a transforming train of irregular waves. (Author)