Transformations of Breaking Wave Characteristics Over a Submarine Bar

摘要

The effect of a submarine bar on the transformation of breaking wave characteristics is to create a filter on wave celerity and length. The degree of filtering is directly related to the intensity of wave breaking. The filtering effect of the submarine bar suggests that this is the reason for better agreement between observed wave parameters and theory in the reforming zone shoreward of the submarine bar. The role of turbulence of flow induced by breaking is the most important factor in wave height attenuation shoreward of the submarine bar. As a result theoretical expressions for shallow water wave transformations in the nearshore zone must take turbulent dissipation into consideration as a major factor. (Author)