A Method for Estimating Depth-Limited Wave Energy

摘要

A method for estimating an upper limit of wind wave energy in shallow water is presented. The method requires knowledge of the depth, the peak frequency of the sea, and the windspeed in order to predict a depth-controlled wave height, H, defined as 4(sq root of E), with E the energy of the wind sea. In the shallow limit, H is shown to be approximately proportional to the square root of depth. The method is recommended for predictions in storm seas and not for swell (i.e., nearly monochromatic waves). (Author)