When holding an object, grip force (Gf) is larger than the smallest force needed to prevent slipping (Gmin). The unnecessary grip force is termed safety margin (SM = Gf - Gmin). Because some hand injuries in rock climbing are largely encouraged by excessive grip force, safety margin was examined in a set of expert climbers, and compared to a set of non-climbers. Subjects were asked to hold a heavy or a light object during either a short or a long duration. We focused on the relative safety margin (RSM = 100 x SM/Gmin) adopted at the initiation of each trial. With the heavy object, climbers and non-climbers had similar RSMs (155 versus 148 %). With the light object, higher RSMs were reached, albeit smaller in climbers as compared to non-climbers (232 versus 386 %). Surprisingly, all subjects exhibited larger RSMs at the initiation of a long trial (246 versus 215 %). We conclude that expertise in rock climbing is not accompanied by key changes in RSMs that increase the likelihood of hand injuries. On theother hand, the fact that grip force is so crudely optimized at large load, especially when planning to sustain a hold, does promote the risk of hand injury in climbers.
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机译：握住物体时，握力（Gf）大于防止打滑所需的最小力（Gmin）。不必要的抓地力称为安全裕度（SM = Gf-Gmin）。由于过大的抓地力在很大程度上促进了攀岩过程中的一些手部伤害，因此在一组专业攀岩者中检查了安全裕度，并将其与一组非攀岩者进行了比较。要求受试者在短时间内或长时间内保持重物或轻物。我们专注于每次试验开始时采用的相对安全裕度（RSM = 100 x SM / Gmin）。对于重物，攀登者和非攀登者具有相似的RSM（155对148％）。使用轻型物体，可以达到较高的RSM，尽管与非攀登者相比，攀登者的RSM较小（232对386％）。令人惊讶的是，所有受试者在长期试验开始时均表现出较大的RSM（246对215％）。我们得出的结论是，攀岩专业知识并不会伴随RSM的重大变化而增加手受伤的可能性。另一方面，握力在大负载下如此粗略地优化，特别是在计划保持时，确实增加了攀岩者手受伤的风险。
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