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LINEAR EVOLUTION OF A NARROW-BANDED SURFACE GRAVITY WAVEPACKET OVER AN INFINITE STEP

机译:无限步骤中窄带表面重力波皮皮上的线性演变

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This paper focuses on the classical and fundamental problem of waves propagating over an infinite step in finite water depth. Specifically, this paper aims to extend classical narrow-banded wave theory for constant water depth which uses a multiple-scales expansion to the case of an abrupt change in the water depth, known as an infinite step. This paper derives the linear evolution equations and is the first step towards the calculation of second-order and higher-order effects for wavepackets travelling over a step using commonly employed envelope-type evolution equations, in particular the bound sub- and super-harmonics at second order.
机译:本文重点介绍了在有限水深在无限步骤中传播的波浪的古典和基本问题。具体地,本文旨在扩展经典的窄带波理论,用于恒定的水深,其使用多尺度扩展到水深突然变化的情况,称为无限步骤。本文推出了线性演化方程,是朝着使用普通采用的包络型演化方程在阶段上行进的二阶和高阶效应计算的第一步,特别是界定的子和超级谐波二阶。

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