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LINEAR EVOLUTION OF A NARROW-BANDED SURFACE GRAVITY WAVEPACKET OVER AN INFINITE STEP

机译:无限步上窄带表面重力波包的线性演化

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This paper focuses on the classical and fundamental problem of waves propagating over an infinite step in finite water depth. Specifically, this paper aims to extend classical narrow-banded wave theory for constant water depth which uses a multiple-scales expansion to the case of an abrupt change in the water depth, known as an infinite step. This paper derives the linear evolution equations and is the first step towards the calculation of second-order and higher-order effects for wavepackets travelling over a step using commonly employed envelope-type evolution equations, in particular the bound sub- and super-harmonics at second order.
机译:本文关注波浪在有限水深的无限步长中传播的经典和基本问题。具体而言,本文旨在将经典的窄带波理论扩展为恒定水深,该理论将多尺度扩展应用于水深突然变化的情况(称为无限步)。本文推导了线性演化方程,这是使用常用的包络类型演化方程,特别是在波峰处的束缚子谐波和超谐波,计算跨步传播的波包的二阶和高阶效应的第一步。二阶。

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