FOR centuries the city of Harar, on the eastern fringes of the Ethiopian highlands, was a sanctuary, its people protected by a great wall that surrounded the entire city. But in the late 19th century it was finally annexed by the Ethiopian empire. Harar regained a bit of independence in 1995, when the area around it became the smallest of Ethiopia's nine ethnically based, semi-autonomous regions. Today it is relatively peaceful and prosperous-and, since last month, a sanctuary once more.
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