菱角壳色素的提取及其对真丝染色的工艺研究

摘要

The influences of extraction temperature, time and solid to liquid ratio on extraction effect of natural dye from water chestnut were discussed by orthogonal test. The effects of dyeing temperature, time and liquor ratio on silk fabric dyeing were investigated. The extraction conditions of natural dye from water chestnut and its dyeing conditions with the extract on silk fabric were optimized. Three dyeing methods, pre- mordant, meta- mordant and post- mordant dyeing were compared. The optimum conditions for the ex⁃traction were: extracting at 60 ℃ for 60 min, 1∶20 of solid to liquid ratio. The optimum dyeing conditions were:dyeing at 80℃for 30 min, 1∶45 of liquor ratio, and pre- mordant dyeing was the best method.%通过正交试验讨论了提取温度、提取时间、固液比对菱角壳色素提取效果的影响；研究了菱角染液染色温度、染色时间、浴比对丝绸染色效果的影响，优化了菱角壳染料色素提取的条件及菱角壳染料染色丝绸的条件。采用天然染料菱角壳对丝绸直接染色，与预媒染、同浴媒染和后媒染3种媒染方式进行比较。天然植物染料优化提取方案为：温度60℃、时间60 min、固液比1∶20。菱角染液对真丝绸直接染色的优化方案为：温度80℃、时间30 min、浴比1∶45。媒染方式以预媒染色为最佳。