传统戏剧服装设计是舞台美术的分支,是区分戏剧剧种的主要标志之一.文章以文献和影像资料为基础,并辅助具体的服装款式图进行研究,对越剧传统剧中五种旦角类型的人物性格、社会地位,以及服装形制、色彩、纹样、材质等综述讨论,厘清越剧旦角服饰的普遍性特征和五种旦角类型的个性化特征.通过研究梳理表明:越剧传统剧改传统衣箱制为专戏设计制,服装以改良古装衣、女帔、女褶三种戏服样式为主,根据类型不同存在特征差异,在细微处体现传统美学精神.%The traditional drama costume design is the branch of the stage art, and also one of the main signs to distinguish the different drama. Based on the literature and image data as well as the specific clothing style charts, this paper studies the characteristics,social status and clothing shape,color,pattern and material of the five kinds of female roles in the Yue opera,summarizes the universal characteristics of the dress and the individual characteristics of the five kinds of female roles. Through the research,it is shown that the traditional Yue opera turns the traditional suitcase system to specialized design system. The clothing is mainly composed of three kinds of costumes, i. e. ancient costume,female robe and women's wrinkle. There are feature differences according to the different types,and traditional aesthetic spirit is reflected in details.
展开▼
