Application of nonlinear deterministic decomposition to the prediction and energy dissipation of long-crested irregular ocean surface waves.

摘要

The Hybrid Wave Model (HWM) is a deterministic nonlinear wave model developed for the computation of wave properties in the vicinity of ocean wave measurements. The HWM employs both Mode-Coupling and Phase Modulation Methods to model the wave-wave interactions in an ocean wave field. Different from other nonlinear wave models, the HWM decouples the nonlinear wave interactions from ocean wave field measurements and decomposes the wave field into a set of free-wave components. In this dissertation the HWM is applied to the prediction of wave elevation from pressure measurements and to the quantification of energy during breaking of long-crested irregular surface waves.; 1. A transient wave train was formed in a two-dimensional wave flume by sequentially generating a series of waves from high to low frequencies that superposed at a downstream location. The predicted wave elevation using the HWM based on the pressure measurement of a very steep transient wave train is in excellent agreement with the corresponding elevation measurement, while that using Linear Wave Theory (LWT) has relatively large discrepancies. Furthermore, the predicted elevation using the HWM is not sensitive to the choice of the cutoff frequency, while that using LWT is very sensitive.; 2. Several transient wave trains containing an isolated plunging or spilling breaker at a prescribed location were generated in a two-dimensional wave flume using the same superposition technique. Surface elevation measurements of each transient wave train were made at locations before and after breaking. Applying the HWM nonlinear deterministic decomposition to the measured elevation, the free-wave components comprising the transient wave train were derived. By comparing the free-wave spectra before and after breaking it is found that energy loss was almost exclusively from wave components at frequencies higher than the spectral peak frequency. Even though the wave components near the peak frequency are the largest, they do not significantly gain or lose energy after breaking. It was also observed that wave components of frequencies significantly below or near the peak frequency gain a small portion of energy lost by the high-frequency waves. These findings may have important implications to the ocean wave energy budget.