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A numerical and experimental study on the nonlinear evolution of long-crested irregular waves

机译:长波不规则波非线性演化的数值和实验研究

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摘要

The spatial evolution of nonlinear long-crested irregular waves characterized by the JONSWAP spectrum is studied numerically using a nonlinear wave model based on a pseudospectral (PS) method and the modified nonlinear Schr?dinger (MNLS) equation. In addition, new laboratory experiments with two different spectral bandwidths are carried out and a number of wave probe measurements are made to validate these two wave models. Strongly nonlinear wave groups are observed experimentally and their propagation and interaction are studied in detail. For the comparison with experimental measurements, the two models need to be initialized with care and the initialization procedures are described. The MNLS equation is found to approximate reasonably well for the wave fields with a relatively smaller Benjamin-Feir index, but the phase error increases as the propagation distance increases. The PS model with different orders of nonlinear approximation is solved numerically, and it is shown that the fifth-order model agrees well with our measurements prior to wave breaking for both spectral bandwidths.
机译:利用基于伪谱(PS)方法和改进的非线性薛定er(MNLS)方程的非线性波模型,对以JONSWAP光谱为特征的非线性长波不规则波的空间演化进行了数值研究。此外,还进行了具有两个不同光谱带宽的新实验室实验,并进行了多次波探针测量,以验证这两个波模型。通过实验观察到强非线性波群,并详细研究了它们的传播和相互作用。为了与实验测量值进行比较,需要仔细初始化两个模型,并描述初始化过程。对于具有相对较小的本杰明-费尔(Benjamin-Feir)指数的波场,发现MNLS方程近似合理,但是随着传播距离的增加,相位误差也会增加。对具有不同阶非线性近似的PS模型进行了数值求解,结果表明,对于两个频谱带宽,五阶模型与我们在破波前的测量结果吻合良好。

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