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A POST-BOUSSINESQ MODEL FOR WEAKLY NONLINEAR FULLYDISPERSIVE WAVE PROPAGATION OVER A BAR

机译:BAR上弱非线性全面波动波动的后BOUSSINES模型

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In the present work a new post-Boussinesq type dispersive wave propagation model is proposed. The model is based on a system of equations in terms of the free surface elevation and the depth-averaged horizontal velocities. The approach is developed for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear irregular waves propagating over any constant water depth in two horizontal dimensions, but it can also be applied over a mildly sloping bottom with considerable accuracy. The 1D version of the model involves four terms in the momentum equation, including the classical swallow water equation terms and only one frequency dispersion term. The latter is expressed through convolution integrals, which are estimated using appropriate impulse functions. The formulation is fully explicit in space and thus no equations need to be inverted for the numerical solution. Numerical integration of a convolution integral is also required. The model is applied to simulate the propagation of regular and irregular waves using a simple explicit scheme of Finite Differences. The numerical model was evaluated with respect to waves passing over a bar as well as with linear and nonlinear wave theory.
机译:在本工作中,提出了一种新的BoussinesQ型分散波传播模型。该模型基于自由表面升高和深度平均水平速度方程系统。该方法是为完全分散的和弱非线性的不规则波在两个水平尺寸上传播的完全分散和弱非线性不规则波,但也可以以相当大的精度在温和倾斜的底部上施加。该模型的1D版本涉及动量方程中的四个术语,包括古典吞咽水平术语和仅一个频率分散术语。后者通过卷积积分表示,其使用适当的脉冲函数估计。该配方在空间中完全明确,因此不需要反转数值解决方案。还需要卷积积分的数值集成。应用该模型来模拟使用简单的有限差异的简单明确的方案来模拟常规和不规则波的传播。关于通过杆的波以及线性和非线性波理论评估数值模型。

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