Denim fabric is made from warp yarn which is at least 30% novelty cotton yarn having irregularly spaced effects (e.g. slubs) about one-half inch to two inches in length. The cotton novelty yarn is made by separating cotton sliver into cotton fibers, and acting on the cotton fibers with a negative wire combing roll, and then twisting the cotton fibers into the cotton novelty yarn. The negative wire combing roll has a tooth angle of about -0.01 to -15° (e.g. about -2°). The novelty cotton yarn is combined with at least 10% conventional novelty yarn or non-slub open end or ring spun yarn and made into a warp of about 54-100 ends per inch, and may be ring dyed (with indigo, vat, sulphur, pigment or reactive dye) so that the core of the yarn remains white. The warp is woven with a filling yarn to produce a denim fabric with a weight of about 5 oz. -17 oz. per sq. yd. having the weave and yarn size selected so that a tight construction is provided which highlights the slubs. The fabric may be subjected to surface abrasion to remove the surface of dye on the slubs to show a lighter slub than body of the fabric. Alternatively, the warp and filling yarns may be natural, and dyeing practiced after the yarns are woven into a fabric and the fabric made into a garment.
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