Sewing machine assembly for stitching pleats and darts uses a folder to feed the fabric and a pressure bar has two drives to guide it operated by a programmable electronic control

摘要

The sewing machine assembly (1), especially for sewing pleats and darts, has a programmable electronic control (4). The fabric is fed by a folder (5) with a straight folding edge, with guidance during stitching by a straight pressure bar (7) which is shifted longitudinally/laterally to give the required seaming. The seam parameters are fed into the control by graphics. The sewing machine assembly for seaming darts and pleats has a drive (8) with a longitudinal sliding axis for the pressure bar, while a second drive (9) gives the bar a side swing to achieve a flat sewing field. The retainer has a section for the lateral movement of the pressure bar. The second drive (9) has a roller carrier, where the rollers guide the pressure bar. The retainer is mounted to the roller carrier. The dimensions of the retainer cover the whole area between the pressure bar and the folded edge of the fabric during stitching. The presser foot (16) is mounted to the sewing machine (3), with a open wedge shape on the side towards the fabric folded edge, and the opposite side has a narrowing angled shape against the folded fabric edge in the direction of fabric movement. A lateral projecting pressure finger is at the pressure bar, with its lower side flush with the under side of the pressure bar. The pressure finger has a wedge-shaped cross section. At the start of stitching, the retainer on the pressure finger slides clear of the finger without sticking as the sewing progresses. The control has a connected visual display screen, which shows the required geometric stitching pattern. The control has standard stitching programs stored in memory, which can be displayed on the screen, and the parameters can be varied through a keyboard. All the parameters for a stitching program are defined as length measurements.