Engineered repeating prints: computer-aided design approaches to achieving continuity of repeating print across a garment using digital engineered print method

摘要

This Master’s research investigated approaches for engineering of repeating prints using digital textile printing technology and universally available computer-aided design software. Current practices for alignment of designs in yardage printed fabrics at garment seams are wasteful and do not allow for mass customisation. This inefficiency can be overcome with engineered digital printing, a method that allows for an integration of prints with garment patterns to generate Ready-to-Print images. Engineered printing offers more cost-effective use of materials, improved visual appearance, potential for mass customisation and more sustainable manufacturing. Still, technical difficulties exist in the integration of prints with garment patterns. As a result, application for apparel is limited to non-repeating prints and one-off fashion show garments. The integration of repeating prints presents even more difficulties. However, the advances in digital printing and computer-aided design technologies call for an examination of possible approaches for achieving improved continuity of a repeating print across a garment. The research used a three-stage mixed method approach. The first qualitative stage examined current practices for design and printing of repeating prints. By undertaking Applied Thematic Analysis, the diversity of meanings assigned to words describing attributes of repeating prints as a result of historical and current usage were identified and the terminology consolidated. A taxonomy of repeating print attributes was established, with three levels observed: a superordinate level for a surface, a basic for a repeat, and a subordinate for a motif. Quantifiable attributes of repeating prints were assigned to each level. The analysis also suggested three potential directions for engineered repeating prints: Modularity Design, Flexible Tiling and Distortion. The second quantitative stage evaluated suggested design directions in four experimental studies: one for each of the directions and a final study combining all three directions to engineer repeating prints for a graded garment. Practical computer-aided design techniques, based on accessible Adobe software tools, were developed for integration of repeating prints with garment patterns. The techniques were then tested in comparison with mainstream printing practices. In each experiment, repeating print attributes were examined for their impact on the adaptability of repeating prints for engineered printing. All three directions were validated as suitable for engineering of repeating prints. Statistical analyses revealed relationships between repeating print attributes and their impact on the adaptability of repeating prints for the engineered printing method. The final stage analysed the combined results of the previous two stages. Existing computer- aided design solutions were found to offer opportunities regarding their ability to be integrated into current digital production for innovative and sustainable engineered printing. While the suggested techniques require knowledge of more advanced dynamic editing tools, the research highlights the benefits for both fashion and textile designers to utilise such tools in order to fully embrace the potential digital printing technology has to offer. The research also highlights the need for dedicated software solutions for integration of repeating prints with garment patterns. The findings on the impact of repeating print attributes on the adaptability for engineered printing can help in the development of dedicated software.