An Introdutory Psychophysical Study of Break In Leather Phase Ⅰ- Development & Evaluation of The Leather Grainometer

摘要

One of the most important characteristics of leather which concerns tanners and large consumers of leather is the property called break. Break is the stream of wrinkles formed when the vamp of a shoe is flexed during walking. Since the number of the wrinkles relates to durability, appearance and overall grade of leather used in footwear, it is essential that this quality be carefully evaluated. The need is especially em¬phasized by the failure of traditional visual, subjective inspection procedures to define or curb the use of coarse leathers in footwear. To solve this problem,(an investigation of the break characteristic was undertaken. This work resulted in the development of an instrument called a Leather Grainomater. The instrument helped to define break objectively. Utilizing the Leather Grainometsr, inexperienced personnel appear able to grade breaks more accurately and consistently than experienced commercial and technical personnel using the subjective, visual approach.