HIGHER APPROXIMATION TO NONLINEAR WATER WAVES AND THE LIMITING WEIGHTS OF CNOIDAL, SOLITARY,AND STOKES' WAVES,

摘要

To obtain the first and second approximations to solitary and cnoidal waves the shallow water expansion method of Friedrichs and Keller is carried out to the fourth order. It is shown that the rigorous first approximation to these amplitude waves of permanent form is identical to the solution first given by Korteweg and De Vries in 1895. The second approximation however results in some new expressions for predicting the behavior of long waves in shallow water. Limiting amplitude is found to be 8/11of the free water depth for the solitary wave. The third approximation to Stokes waves in water of finite depth is verified by the use of the classical small-perturbation expansion method. For finite amplitude waves the series expansion is found to be in terms of a parameter most suitable for wavelengths shorter than 8times the depth. Rather severe restrictions inherent in the well-known analogy between the nonlinear shallow water flow and two-dimensional perfect gas flow are pointed out. (Author)