Application of Short-Crested Wave Theory in the Design of Three Dimensional Coastal Hydrodynamic Models

摘要

In spring 1973 a series of field experiments was initiated to investigate the three dimensional structure of a coastal hydrodynamic system. These field investigations supported the concept that short-crested wave theory is applicable to modeling of incident wind-wave transformations from offshore to the outer surf zone. Application of short-crested wave theory to the design of coastal hydrodynamic models was also considered appropriate because of the theories inherent three dimensional structure. Concurrent with this work two field experiments were conducted in 1974 and 1976 to measure vertical and horizontal distribution of longshore current velocity and to monitor temporal variations in current velocity at a point. In fall 1978 a series of experimental laboratory investigations was initiated to make precise measurements, at close spatial intervals, of wave height decay after breaking. These experiments were carried out to determine a wave height decay expression based upon the assumption that an appropriate physical conceptualization of wave energy dissipation after breaking must consider turbulence dominant to bottom friction. This report presents a detailed summary of these investigations and their results. (Author)