Wave Kinematics and Sediment Suspension at Wave Breaking Point

摘要

The flow field and sediment suspension at wave breaking point were studied in the laboratory. The flow field concerns mainly the drift velocity on sloping beach. The drift velocity profiles as well as the mean drift velocity strength were established through laboratory measurements. Various existing theories were examined and compared with laboratory results. A sediment suspension model was proposed based on the diffusion model including considerations of the fall velocity reduction in an oscillatory flow field, the sediment grading, and the degree of agitation in the flow field. The model reduced the dependence of the data-fitted coefficients to a minimum. Comparison of this model with data from various sources was made. The results are encouraging. (Author)