CHAIRMAN MAO'S PORTRAIT still decorates many households in Yaoli, a former communist guerilla base in China's Jiangxi province. But what mesmerizes the people these days is television. On a typical Monday afternoon, two children sit transfixed beforetheir family's flickering set watching a tangled romantic drama from Hong Kong. A few doors down, a retired couple giddily tell visitors about the various provincial stations their local cable provider carries. "We get Shanghai, Zhejiang, Anhui, Hunan,"says the husband with evident pride. "We have 12 in all."
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