As part of our annual homage to the delights of Asian cuisine, John Susman peers into the fish tank to analyse the age-old tradition of live seafood in Chinese restaurants. It's 2am on a cold, windy, winter's morning, way past the bedtime for a tiredold fishmonger. But I find myself staring with an aimlessness that is part-tiredness, part-belly-full-of-steamed wrasse, at the never-ending row of tanks full of live piscatorial wonders that make up the front window of the iconic Sydney restaurant Golden Century.
展开▼
