The influence of alongshore and cross-shore wave energy flux on large- and small-scale coastal erosion patterns

摘要

A strong low-pressure system traveled along the Japanese main island Honshu in October 2006. High waves and storm surge attacked the Kashima Coast resulting in huge erosion over the area. Airborne laser data measured in October 2005 and November 2006 were analyzed to estimate cross-sectional changes within the subaerial zone. The results of the alongshore distribution of the changes of cross-sectional area indicate that the amount of erosion of the 38km-long northern and 15km-long southern parts decreased toward the south in each part and that the amount of erosion was smaller in protected areas with artificial headlands than in unprotected areas. The local alongshore variation of the erosion and accretion patterns showed wavy fluctuations of several hundreds of meters. The total amounts of the estimated eroded volume of the subaerial zone over the northern and southern parts were 620 000m3 and 600 000m3, respectively. The Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model was applied to estimate wave conditions along the coast during the storm. The computational results were verified, and then the alongshore distribution of wave energies, expressed as the alongshore and cross-shore components of the wave energy flux, was compared with the alongshore distribution of cross-sectional change. The results show that the distribution of energy flux explains the distribution of erosion well: The alongshore variability in the cross-shore energy flux is responsible for the large-scale variability in erosion, and shorter-scale variability is due to gradients in the alongshore energy fluxes, especially for the areas without coastal works.