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Anomalous wave statistics following sudden depth transitions: application of an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation

机译:深度突然转变后的异常波统计:另一种Boussinesq型公式的应用

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摘要

Recent studies of water waves propagating over sloping seabeds have shown that sudden transitions from deeper to shallower depths can produce significant increases in the skewness and kurtosis of the free surface elevation and hence in the probability of rogue wave occurrence. Gramstad et al. (Phys. Fluids 25 (12): 122103, 2013) have shown that the key physics underlying these increases can be captured by a weakly dispersive and weakly nonlinear Boussinesq-type model. In the present paper, a numerical model based on an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation is used to repeat these earlier simulations. Although qualitative agreement is achieved, the present model is found to be unable to reproduce accurately the findings of the earlier study. Model parameter tests are then used to demonstrate that the present Boussinesq-type formulation is not well-suited to modelling the propagation of waves over sudden depth transitions. The present study nonetheless provides useful insight into the complexity encountered when modelling this type of problem and outlines a number of promising avenues for further research.
机译:最近对在倾斜海床上传播的水波的研究表明,从较深深度到较浅深度的突然转变会导致自由表面高程的偏度和峰度显着增加,从而增加流氓波发生的概率。Gramstad 等人(Phys. Fluids 25 (12): 122103, 2013) 已经表明,这些增加背后的关键物理原理可以通过弱色散和弱非线性 Boussinesq 型模型来捕获。本文使用基于替代Boussinesq型公式的数值模型来重复这些早期的模拟。尽管在质量上达成了一致,但发现本模型无法准确再现早期研究的结果。然后使用模型参数测试来证明目前的Boussinesq型公式不太适合模拟波在突然深度转变中的传播。尽管如此,本研究为对此类问题建模时遇到的复杂性提供了有用的见解,并概述了进一步研究的一些有希望的途径。

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