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Sugar Rush. A Quebecois chef heads to the forest to sweeten haute cuisine

机译:糖仓促。魁北克省的厨师前往森林品尝高级美食

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摘要

Martin picard is not averse to pairing maple syrup with pancakes, though it depends on how you define a pancake. Case in point: the French-Canadian chef's Vinily sandwich, from his new cookbook Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack. Two thick flapjacks, fried in duck fat, act as doughy paperweights. Shreds of stout- and syrup-roasted pork belly, a maple-cream-cucumber-herb dressing and a layer of raw-milk goat cheese sit between them. The portly little pile is doused in syrup and staked with a Popsicle stick. In a footnote, the cook suggests tossing in two slices of salted foie gras: "If you're in the mood," he writes, "it's a nice variation." Picard's Montreal restaurant, Au Pied de Cochon, a bastion of excess beloved by Anthony Bourdain and other gastronomes, was the first to proclaim Quebecois cuisine worthy of world recognition and reinvention. It is a shrine to lard, a place that pays tribute to Grandma's classics and then smothers them in goose liver.
机译:马丁·皮卡德(Martin Picard)并不反对将枫糖浆与煎饼搭配使用,尽管它取决于定义煎饼的方式。一个很好的例子:法国加拿大厨师的Vinily三明治,来自他的新食谱《 Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack》。两个厚厚的烙饼,用鸭油油炸,起面团镇纸作用。在它们之间切成薄片的粗壮和糖浆烤的五花肉,枫糖霜黄瓜香草调味料和一层生奶山羊奶酪。轻巧的小堆被浸入糖浆中,并用冰棒棍扎成桩。在一个脚注中,厨师建议将两片咸鹅肝扔进去:“如果您有心情,”他写道,“这是一个不错的选择。”皮卡德(Picard)在蒙特利尔的餐厅Au Coed de Cochon,是安东尼·布尔登(Anthony Bourdain)和其他美食家所钟爱的过剩堡垒,它是第一家宣布魁北克美食值得世界认可和重塑的餐厅。它是猪油的神殿,向祖母的经典致敬,然后用鹅肝将它们窒息。

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  • 来源
    《Time》 |2012年第11期|p.56|共1页
  • 作者

    Hillary Brenhouse;

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