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On the Interaction between Wind Stress and Waves: Wave Growth and Statistical Properties of Large Waves

机译:关于风力应力与波之间的相互作用:大波浪的波长和统计特性

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摘要

Statistical properties and development of wave fields with different wind forcings are investigated through parametric laboratory experiments. Thirty different, random sea states simulated using a JONSWAP spectrum are mechanically generated in deep-water conditions. Each of the random simulated sea states is exactly repeated but subjected to a range of different wind speeds to study the interaction between wind stress and the existing random sea state waves, especially the isolated effect of the wind stress on the largest waves. Wave crest distributions are sensitive to the wind at the extreme end such that there is an observed deviation from second-order theory for the largest (lowest probability) waves at high wind speed. Because the local wave steepness increases with wind speed, eventually reaching a breaking point, the growth of extreme waves (relative to the significant wave height) due to wind stress is shown to be limited by wave breaking. Even when large waves are breaking, the data reveal that amplitude modulation of wave groups is enhanced substantially as the wind speed increases due to the difference in growth rates between the highest and the lowest wave crests in a wave group. However, there is no evidence of an increase in modulation instability with the wind speed, suggesting that the wind-wave interaction under strong wind forcing dominates the wave growth mechanism over nonlinear wave interactions in a broadband wave field.
机译:通过参数实验室实验研究了不同风力强调的波场的统计特性和发展。使用Jonswap谱模拟的三十个不同的随机海状态在深水条件下机械产生。每个随机模拟的海星态被完全重复,但经受一系列不同的风速,以研究风力应力和现有的随机海水波之间的相互作用,特别是风力应力对最大波的隔离效果。波峰分布在极端的极端对风敏感,使得在高风速下的最大(最低概率)波的二阶理论存在偏差。因为局部波陡度随着风速而增加,所以最终达到断裂点,所示,由于风应力引起的极端波(相对于显着波高)的生长被示出为受波形断裂的限制。即使当大波浪断裂时,数据也表明,随着在波组中最高和最低波峰之间的生长速率的差异,风速增加,波组的幅度调制基本上基本上增加。然而,没有证据表明在风速下的调制不稳定性增加,表明强风强制下的风波相互作用在宽带波场中的非线性波相互作用主导波长波相互作用。

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