Fauzia, an illiterate mother of seven, has begun going to college. Each day, she heads for Basra University's eucalyptus trees to machete off its branches for firewood, reducing a grand arbour to stumps. "Before if we dared chop down the trees, Saddam Hussein would have chopped off our heads," she admits, beneath a bundle of branches. In this city of oil terminals she has no money to buy fuel for cooking.
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