Time to get serious

摘要

How does a relatively unknown London restaurant suddenly become the hottest joint in the country? Two essential ingredients are universal praise and a waiting list that stretches months ahead. Ollie Dabbous leapt into the limelight as soon as his eponymous restaurant opened in an unprepossessing corner of the city in 2012. A Michelin star followed less than a year later and now there is a lavishly illustrated cookbook that juxtaposes grim industrial detail with exquisite dishes of identifiable simple ingredients. It isn't all hype. Mr Dabbous is creating delicious affordable food. A set lunch is £32 ($52) and the priciest evening tasting menu is just double that. He trained at Raymond Blanc's Manoir aux Quat' Saisons before going on to Heston Blu-menthal's Fat Duck and Rene Redzepi's Noma in Copenhagen. His credo is individuality, simplicity and value; with everything subservient to taste.