The surf zone dynamics are governed by important processes such as turbulence generation , nearshore sediment transport , wave run-up and wave overtopping at a coastal structure. During field observations , it is very challenging to measure and quantify wave breaking turbulence . Complementary to experimental laboratory studies in a more controlled environment , numerical simulations are highly suitable to understand and quantify surf zone processes more accurately. In this study, wave propagation and wave breaking over a fixed barred beach profile is investigated using a two phase Navier-Stokes flow solver. We show that accurate predictions of the turbulent two-phase flow field require special attention regarding turbulence modelling. The numerical wave flume is implemented in the open source OpenFOAM library. The computed results (surface elevations , velocity profiles and turbulence levels) are compared against experimental measurements in a wave flume (van der A et al., 2017) .
展开▼
机译：冲浪区的动力学受重要过程控制，例如湍流的产生，近岸沉积物的输送，波浪的上升和海岸结构的波浪超顶。在野外观测期间，测量和量化破波湍流非常具有挑战性。作为在更可控的环境中进行实验实验室研究的补充，数值模拟非常适合于更准确地理解和量化冲浪区过程。在这项研究中，使用两相Navier-Stokes流量解算器研究了在固定禁止海滩剖面上的波浪传播和波浪破碎。我们表明，湍流两相流场的准确预测需要特别关注湍流建模。数字波形水槽在开源OpenFOAM库中实现。将计算结果（表面高程，速度剖面和湍流水平）与波浪槽中的实验测量结果进行比较（van der A等，2017）。
展开▼
