Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone

摘要

The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging.