Incident Irregular Waves and Long Waves in Surf Zone

摘要

This paper outlines numerical and physical models on the transformation of irregular waves and induced long waves in surf zone. The numerical model is based on the Weighted-Average Flux method with Time-Operator-Splitting used for the treatment of the source terms. A nonlinear wave theory, Stream Function Wave Theory was used to compute the radiation stress and other quantities needed in the model. The physical model was conducted in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, China. The validation of numerical model was done against the laboratory findings, and the agreement was encouraging. This comparison verifies that the numerical model could predict the transformation of irregular waves and low frequency waves, and that the nonlinear wave theory is necessary in modeling, especially in surf zone.