Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part II: surf beat and swash oscillations for wave groups and irregular waves

摘要

This is the second of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In the first paper the general model was described and it was applied to study cross-shore motion Of regular waves in the surf zone. In this paper, part II, we consider the cross-shore motion of Wave groups and irregular waves with emphasis on shoaling, breaking and runup as well as the Generation of surf beats. These phenomena are investigated numerically by using a time-domain Boussinesq type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as well s the long waves.