Hungarians say the area around Badac-sony, on Hungary's Lake Balaton, held on to its charms even in socialist times. Maybe it was the vines. People don't have yards in this part of Hungary: They have grapes, strung from trellises and covering every available piece of the gray, volcanic soil. It has been that way since Roman times. Against such a well-entrenched viticulture, even communism didn't have a chance.
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