フレアースカートの局所的自重変形とこれに及ぼす布地の力学特性の影響:重回帰分析を用いて

摘要

異なる14種の布地で製作されたフレアースカートの局所的自重変形を，捺印法により計測し，布 地，段，列を要因とする三元配置分散分析により検討.また，変形に及ぼす布地の力学特性の影響 を重回帰分析により検討した.結果，1)布地，段，列，各要因が有意差を示し，多重比較の結果， 局所変形はシルクサテンが最大，ブロードが最小を示し，段では2段目>1段目与3段目>4段目の 順に，列では左右脇線>左右中間線>中心線の順に大となった.2)布地の諸元及びKES値を説明変 数とする重回帰分析の結果，1段目では引張り伸び率が，2 • 3段目の左右脇線では，主としてせん 断剛性が，同左右中間線では，主として曲げ剛性が，4段目では糸密度が抽出され，フレアースカー トの自重変形に及ぼす布地の力学特性の影響は，スカートの部位によつて異なることが明らかにさ れた.3)左右脇線の局所変形の差はバイアス地の目の相違によるもので，これがフレアースカート 脇線の捩れの原因と考えられた.%The local deformation of flared skirts made of 14 different kinds of fabrics under the clothing's own weight was measured by the circular stamp method and examined through analysis of a 3-way ANOVA test. Additionally, the influence of the mechanical properties of fabrics on the local deformation were investigated by the multiple regression analysis. The results were as follows: 1) The results of the 3-way ANOVA test indicated that the local deformation of the skirts changed significantly with each factor, that is fabric (the largest deformation being in silk satin and the least one in broadcloth), row (2nd>3rd≒1st>4th) and column (side> middle>center); 2) As a result of the multiple regression analysis with variables of each fabric and explanatory variables of the KES value, the deformation of the 1st row was explained by the tensile characteristic, that of the 2nd and 3rd rows of the left and right side was explained by the shearing characteristic, and the intermediate position was explained mainly by the bending characteristic, and that of the 4th row was explained by the weave density; 3) The local deformation of the left and right side line was different in the bias texture, and this was considered to be the cause of the twist of the flared skirt side line.