本研究以显微共焦拉曼光谱技术（Micro—Raman）、薄层色谱（TLC）、紫外-可见吸收光谱（uv—Vis）及高效液相色谱（HPLC）为主要分析手段，对一组古代丝织品（包括清代传世品扇套、元代鸽子洞出土蓝棉袄和百纳枕顶）上蓝色染料进行分析鉴定。结果表明，该组样品中蓝色均为靛蓝染色，色素成分有靛蓝素和靛玉红，由于制靛工艺或老化程度不同，在各样品中两成分相对比例均不相同。分别对靛蓝试剂进行UVA、50℃高温、85％高湿老化实验，对老化前后样品进行了检测。分析发现，光照2个月后，靛玉红相对含量降低较明显。高温、高湿老化6个月后靛蓝素和靛玉红含量的显著降低。特别是在高温环境下靛蓝素相对含量降低幅度相当大，可见较之靛玉红，靛蓝素更不耐高温老化。该研究采用无损与微损技术结合的方法有效解决了蓝色植物染料的鉴定，同时通过老化试验初步明确了靛蓝染料的降解原因，对于染色工艺研究以及色彩保存工作具有重要意义。%In this study, the blue dyes from a group of Chinese ancient silk samples, which include a Qing Dynasty fan cover, a blue Cotton -padded jacket and a Yuan Dynasty baina pillow top excavated at Gezidong were analyzed by Micro - Raman spectroscopy ( Micro - Raman ), thin layer chromatography ( TLC ) , UV - visible absorption spectroscopy (UV- Vis) and high- performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The results showed that all the blue dyes were indigo, their composition being indigotin and indirubin. Because of the difference in manufacturing processes or degree of ageing, the ratios of indigotin and indirubin were different. Indigo samples were artificially aged by UVA light, at high temperature (50~C) and humidity (RH = 85% ), and the samples were tested before and after aging. After aging in ultraviolet light for 2 months, the relative content of indirubin decreased significant- ly. After aging at high temperature and humidity for 6 months, both indigotin and indirubin contents were reduced. At high temperatures the ratio of indigotin to indirubin was reduced, suggesting that indigotin was more sensitive to heat than indirubin. The blue plant dyes were effectively characterized using non - destructive and less invasive technologies. The mechanism of degradation of indigo dyes was proposed based on the aging test. This study is of importance for research on dyeing process research and color conservation.
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