介绍了厚重型彩色牛仔面料与传统牛仔面料特征区别,以美棉为原料,选用条干均匀、强力高、三丝少的96、80tex粗特纱,采用类似色织染纱工艺,以Z捻与三上一下左斜纹组织配合,以亚麻色与坯纱色、卡其灰色与坯纱色为主进行双色效果厚重彩色牛仔面料的设计与生产实践.结果表明:纱线质量高、染色均匀、淀粉浆浆纱、剑杆织机织造等能保证产品品质和质量要求.设计与生产的2款厚重彩色牛仔面料质地紧密、手感细腻、柔软、厚实、纹路清晰、遮光效果好.%The paper introduced the difference between the thick color denim fabric and the traditional denim fabric. The US cotton was chosen as the raw material. Meanwhile, 96 tex and 80 tex coarse yarns with evenness, high strength, and few three filaments were selected to produce thick color denim fabric. In the production process, similar yarn dyeing process was used. Z twist and 3/1 left twill cooperated. Flaxen and billet yarn color, khaki grey and green yarn color were mainly used to design and produce thick denim fabric with double-color effect. The results show that high-quality yarn, homogeneous dyeing, sizing with starch slurry and weaving with rapier loom can guarantee product quality and quality requirements. Moreover, the two kinds of thick color denim fabrics have such advantages as compact texture, softness, thickness, distinct wale and good shading effect, so they are well accepted by foreign customers.
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