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Wave breaking and runup of long waves approaching a cliff over a variable bathymetry

机译:在可变沐浴浴上接近悬崖的长波的波浪和流动

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Long waves approaching a cliff are significantly affected by a variable bathymetry. Wave breaking is observed, and determined by both the bathymetry and nonlinear interactions of the waves with the cliff and other waves. Geometric and kinematic measures are applied to determine a breaking criteria, however there are inconsistencies in both when the wave parameters are close to breaking/non-breaking interface values. Wave crest-cliff interaction is discussed in terms of its effect on the phase and fluid velocities. Runup amplification increases with the number of waves in the approaching wavepacket, their amplitude, and the bathymetry slope, but is approximately independent of the wave period. Runup amplifications approaching a factor of 12 are observed for a bathymetry approximating that of the Aran Islands, Ireland.
机译:接近悬崖的长波受到可变浴的显着影响。观察波断裂,并通过与悬崖和其他波的波浪的浴序和非线性相互作用确定。应用几何和运动措施来确定破坏标准,但是当波参数接近破坏/不破坏接口值时都存在不一致。在其对相和流体速度的影响方面讨论了波峰悬崖相互作用。螺射放大随着接近波袋,幅度和沐浴倾斜度的波的数量增加,但是大致独立于波段。对于近似阿兰群岛,爱尔兰的浴室,观察到接近12倍的液量扩增。

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