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INTERACTIONS OF CATIONIC FORMULATIONS ON HUMAN HAIR: EFFECTS ON CUTICLE TEXTURE AND CORTEX POROSITY

机译:阳离子制剂对人毛的相互作用:对角质层纹理和皮质孔隙率的影响

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During the daily care as cleansing, bleaching, ironing and others the hair fiber becomes damaged due to alterations in superficial charges, cuticle breakage and the protein loss from cuticle and cortex (1,2). Cationic formulations are used to treat damaged hair fiber. Cuticle and cortex properties change by the adsorption and diffusion of formulation ingredients (1,2). The adsorption of cationic surfactants containing quaternary ammonium on hair surface has been majority attributed to electrostatic interactions between the negatively charged cuticle after shampooing and the positive charge of these compounds (1). The uniformity of the adsorbed layer has direct influence on damaged hair texture (3,4). Recent advances in computational image analyses and very low angle illumination on light microscope allow us to develop a new approach of hair texture evaluation (5). On the other hand, the diffusion of ingredients into cortex has been attributed mainly to size, concentration and affinity between the molecule and hair. Cationic surfactants play an important role in the diffusion process due to the deposition and charge-charge interactions on hair surface (1).
机译:在日常护理如清洁,漂白,熨烫和其他头发纤维会因以空塔收费,角质层破裂和从表皮和皮层(1,2)的蛋白质损失的改变损坏。阳离子制剂用于治疗受损的毛发纤维。角质层和皮质性通过的制剂成分(1,2)中的吸附和扩散而改变。含有对头发表面的季铵阳离子表面活性剂的吸附已经大部分归因于洗发后,带负电荷的角质层和正电荷,这些化合物(1)的之间的静电相互作用。吸附层的均匀性有受损毛发纹理(3,4)直接影响。关于光学显微镜下计算图像分析和非常低的角度照明的最新进展使我们可以开发头发质感评价(5)的一种新的方法。在另一方面,配料到皮质扩散已被主要归因于所述分子和头发之间的大小,浓度和亲和力。阳离子表面活性剂起到扩散过程中起重要作用,由于在头发上表面(1)的沉积和电荷 - 电荷相互作用。

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