Sorting and sedimentology character of sandy beach under wave action

摘要

To explore the sandy beach sorting and sedimentary characteristic induced by wave action, a set of 2D wave flume experiments on a sandy beach were performed. The initial beach slope with non-uniform sand of combination of 1/10 and 1/20 was exposed to regular waves, random waves, cnoidal waves and solitary waves respectively. The evolution of cross-shore beach profiles and the grain size of sediments in different locations were measured and recorded. Experimental results show that the sediments of sandy beach under wave action produced obvious sorting phenomenon. The intense turbulence generated by breaking waves leads to the sediment-transporting, and provides the impetus for the movement of fine sands. Course sands deposited in intense turbulence deposition area because of carrying capacity of the flow is not enough due to turbulence effect. Fine sands were carried by the flow induced by breaking waves, and separately deposited in the area of weak turbulence.