WAVE TRANSFORMATION IN FRONT OF THE DUTCH COAST

摘要

The spectral wave model SWAN has been applied to transform a set of offshore wave conditions to nearshore locations along the Dutch coast. The set contains both moderate and severe storm conditions as well as extreme conditions. The resulting transfer function can be applied for design purposes, safety assessment and other purposes for which operational or more extreme wave conditions in the nearshore area are required. The most severe storm in the recent period of five years was chosen to verify the results from the SWAN computations and the assumptions in the boundary condition methodology. Both the predicted significant wave height and the mean wave period agreed very well with the corresponding wave parameters measured at five locations in the nearshore area in front of the Petten sea defense.