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SHALLOW-WATER SPECTRAL SHAPES

机译:浅水谱形状

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摘要

Laboratory flume observations and Boussinesq model simulations of wave transformation are used to investigate the evolution of spectral shapes in shallow water. Wave spectra of nonlinear, shallow-water waves both inside and outside the surf zone evolve to the same equilibrium shape (single-peak, double-peak, broad, and narrow incident spectra). The equilibrium shape consists of two slopes, k~(-4/3) for kd < 1 and k~(-5/2) for kd > 1. Broad incident spectra or multi-peaked spectra evolve to equilibrium over shorter distances than narrow incident spectra. Likewise, the evolution distances shorten as nonlinearity increases. The one-dimensional, time-domain Boussinesq model of Nwogu and Demirbilek (2001) reproduced the spectral evolution both inside and outside the surf zone. The model also simulated the equilibrium range spectral shapes for kd < 1.5. Similar to deepwater spectral evolution, the equilibrium range in shallow water is driven by the nonlinear wave-wave interactions. The evolution in spectral shape from strong harmonic peaks to an equilibrium shape reflects the change in wave shape from a vertical asymmetry to a horizontal asymmetry.
机译:利用实验室的飞行观测和BoussinesQ模型模拟的波动变换来研究浅水中光谱形状的演变。冲浪区内外的非线性,浅水波的波光谱进化到相同的平衡形状(单峰,双峰,宽,事件光谱)。平衡形状由两个斜坡,K〜(-4/3)用于KD <1和K〜(-5/2),用于KD> 1.广泛的入射光谱或多峰值光谱演变为比窄的距离较短的距离事件光谱。同样,随着非线性的增加,演化距离缩短。 NWoGU和Demirbilek(2001)的一维,时域BoussinesQ模型再现了冲浪区内外的光谱演化。该模型还模拟了KD <1.5的平衡范围谱形状。类似于深水光谱演化,浅水中的平衡范围由非线性波浪相互作用驱动。从强谐波峰值到平衡形状的光谱形状的演变反映了从垂直不对称到水平不对称的波形变化。

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