METHOD FOR PLOTTING OF BASIC CONSTRUCTION FOR LADIES' WEAR

摘要

FIELD: sewing industry.;SUBSTANCE: method involves taking standard and additional measures; plotting article base in the form of flat part including shoulder, lower and side cuts, tucks and sleeve base; for plotting of armhole, balancing points of shoulder cut S1 and S2 respectively over front part and back part by arranging point S1 in vertical plane below point S2 within a range of from 0.1 to 2.5 cm; determining position of lower point of armhole La on side cut line by laying-off length in down direction, said length being at least equal to height of dip with addition admitted for set-in sleeve from middle point of straight line which joins end points of shoulder cuts over front part S1 and back part S2; laying-off measures Wch2 and Wb respectively from mid portion lines of front part and back part, along chest line, and drawing vertical lines through ends of said measures in order to define armhole contacting points Ca over front part and back contacting points Cb over back part. Distance from point Ca in horizontal plane to side cut line is not less than distance from point Ca in vertical plane to horizontal line extending through point Ha, and distance from point Cb in vertical plane to said horizontal line is at least 1.5 the distance from point Ca in horizontal plane to side cut line. Sleeve is plotted taking into account that height of dip should not exceed half the width of sleeve under armhole.;EFFECT: increased precision in plotting of ladies' wear basic construction designed for individual figure.;6 cl, 3 dwg