GINGERLY, I leapt from one chunk of bobbing pack-ice to the next, bouncing quickly off the smaller chunks before they sank. Ice-hopping further and further from the shore of Victoria Island, 2000 km from the North Pole, I was searching for water deepenough to fish for Arctic char. Sinking pack-ice wasn't the biggest danger I was about to face. With my expedition partner, Clark Carter, I'd been crossing the barren lands of Victoria Island for 17 days, dragging our supplies in wheeled kayaks we'd designed and built in my parents' garage in Sydney.
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