It was gray and cold and windy and snowing — conditions that pretty much typify the Pawnee National Grassland of northeastern Colorado in early February. A gate blocked access to the Crow Valley campsite, but a sign invited foot travel. Assessing the size of the snowdrift across the road and the absence of footprints, I judged that nobody had taken the U.S. Forest Service up on its offer. "Want to do a little walkabout?" I asked. "No," said Linda. "Want to leave?" I asked. "No," she said.
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