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The effect of wind waves on the development of river mouth bars

机译:风浪对河口坝发育的影响

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River deltas are among the most important environments on earth, housing productive ecosystems and a large fraction of the human population. The key process for delta development is the deposition of mouth bars in front of delta distributaries. Predicting mouth bar formation on marine coastlines is complex because of the interactions between waves, tides, water and sediment discharge. Here we study the effects of waves on mouth bar growth with the coupled sediment transport and wave model Delft3D-SWAN. Our results show that wave characteristics (height, period, and direction) play an important role in the formation of mouth bars. In our numerical experiments waves affect bar development in three ways: by modifying the direction of the river jet, by increasing bottom shear stresses at the river mouth, and by changing bottom friction and hence increasing jet spreading. We further show that high waves with long period prevent the formation of mouth bars; in particular, wave angles between 45 and 60 are the least favorable to bar formation, likely producing a deflected river mouth.
机译:三角洲是地球上最重要的环境之一,拥有生产性生态系统和大部分人口。三角洲发展的关键过程是在三角洲分流点前面沉积口巴。由于波浪,潮汐,水和沉积物排放之间的相互作用,因此预测海洋海岸线上的口岸形成是复杂的。在这里,我们通过耦合的泥沙传输和波浪模型Delft3D-SWAN研究波浪对口岸生长的影响。我们的结果表明,波浪特征(高度,周期和方向)在口形琴的形成中起着重要作用。在我们的数值实验中,波浪以三种方式影响钢筋的发育:通过改变河流射流的方向,增加河口处的底部切应力,改变底部摩擦力并因此增加射流的扩散。我们进一步表明,长时间的高波浪会阻止口巴的形成;特别是,45至60度之间的波角最不利于形成条形,可能会导致河口偏斜。

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