首页> 外文期刊>Continental Shelf Research: A Companion Journal to Deep-Sea Research and Progress in Oceanography >Effect of wave breaking on sediment eddy diffusivity, suspended-sediment and longshore sediment flux profiles in the surf zone
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Effect of wave breaking on sediment eddy diffusivity, suspended-sediment and longshore sediment flux profiles in the surf zone

机译:波浪对冲浪区泥沙涡流扩散率,悬浮泥沙和近岸泥沙通量剖面的影响

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Turbulence intensity estimates From a wave basin experiment of prototype scale provide description of an eddy viscosity profile above the bottom-boundary layer under unbroken and broken waves. Detailed suspended-sediment concentration data from the DUCK94 surf zone experiment show that the sediment eddy diffusion profile (K-s) in the nearbed is consistent with a linear nearbed profile whose slope depends on the friction velocity. A full water column K-s profile that reflects the wave-breaking state is formulated from the wave basin and DUCK94 data. A simple model shows that the vertical structure of the K-s profile above the nearbed region is an important factor in predicting suspended-sediment profiles in the surf zone, in contrast to locations outside the surf zone where bottom-boundary layer friction is the primary mechanism in controlling suspension and distribution of suspended sediment. Under broken wave conditions, the difference between the predictions of suspended-sediment load in the lower 50 cm using a K-s profile that reflects broken wave influences and one that does not, averages 28 percent in this study. The prediction of longshore sediment flux is even more strongly influenced by the water column K-s profile because even small quantities of sediment that are suspended into the upper water column are subjected to higher velocities than in the nearbed. In this study, the ratios of measured longshore flux to prediction average 0.67 when the wave breaking state is not taken into account in the K-s profile. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved. [References: 35]
机译:湍流强度的估计来自原型规模的波盆实验,提供了在不间断和不连续波作用下底部边界层上方涡流粘度分布的描述。来自DUCK94冲浪区实验的详细悬浮沉积物浓度数据表明,近床层中的沉积物涡流扩散曲线(K-s)与线性近床曲线一致,其斜率取决于摩擦速度。根据波浪盆地和DUCK94数据,形成了反映波浪破碎状态的全水柱K-s曲线。一个简单的模型表明,与海床底部边界层摩擦是海底边界摩擦的主要机理相比,近海区上方Ks剖面的垂直结构是预测海浪区悬浮沉积物剖面的重要因素。控制悬浮泥沙的悬浮和分布。在破碎波条件下,在本研究中,使用反映破碎波影响的K-s曲线与在下部50 cm处的悬浮泥沙负荷预测之间的差异平均为28%。水柱K-s剖面对长岸沉积物通量的预测影响更大,因为即使悬浮在上水柱中的少量沉积物的速度也要高于近床。在这项研究中,当未在K-s剖面中考虑波浪破碎状态时,测得的近岸通量与预测平均值之比为0.67。 (C)2002 Elsevier ScienceLtd。保留所有权利。 [参考:35]

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