Gourmet chain gangs

摘要

Settle's new Bonefish Grill is the sort of restaurant TV's Frasier Crane and his snooty foodie brother, Niles, would sneer at. It's not just the oh-so-un-eouth chocolate martinis or the chatty waiters hawking Bang Bang Shrimp ("like popcorn shrimp, only much, much better!"). No, the biggest bone restaurant snobs have to pick with Bonefish is that the popular eatery is part of a chain. The bane of gourmets everywhere, corporate-owned eateries have long dwelled at the bottom of the restaurant food chain. But that was before the birth of "polished casual"-a type of chain committed to fresh ingredients, good service, and chic ambience. Chefs and kitchen managers are well paid and aren't shuffled every time a new outlet needs staffing. "We also allow a bit of flexibility with the menu and wine," says John Cooper, head of Bonefish Grill, which currently has 42 locations.