Nearly every day at dawn, John Heitz falls a little bit in love. Leaning over a 150-1b. yellowfin tuna, the 55-year-old American, whose business is exporting fish, circles his forefinger around its deep eye socket. "Look how clear these eyes are," he says. He traces the puncture where the fish was hooked and the markings under its pectoral fin where it struggled on the line. "Sometimes," Heitz says, "I see a good tuna, and it looks better to me than a woman."
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